Natural dyes draw me in. They are a prominent part of my work with fiber and a focal part of several organizations I belong to within my community. This journal entry is not that, but rather the experimentation with a historical chemical reaction that altered our dyeing textile methods forever. It was an experiment that made history come alive for me and filled me with wonder at people’s search for color.

Dr. Joseph Gal ignited this experiment for me. Dr. Gal is a Professor of Medicine and Pathology at the University of Colorado School of Medicine. Working under his leadership at the University of Colorado Clinical Lab, I witnessed his extensive knowledge of chemistry and toxicology. I learned of his passion for researching the art and scientific history that continues to shape us today. It’s with this backdrop that I was excited to accept an invitation to attend his presentation that is in line with my interests as well: chemistry, history and fiber! The presentation? “Mauve: A Color That Changed Fashion, Science, Medicine and History.” I’ve attached the link below if you’re interested in watching the presentation in its entirety.

A quick summary of Perkin’s Mauve (or Mauveine) is this: A young scientist, William Henry Perkin, was working to create quinine, a cure for Malaria which had ravaged Europe and part of the UK. In his efforts, he unintentionally created a brilliant mauve dye, It caught the attention of very affluent people of the time and forever changed fashion and the way the world dyed textiles. It also impacted the science world today, ultimately aiding in finding a cure for Malaria.

In preparation for Dr. Gal’s presentation, I thought it would be interesting to bring a silk scarf hand-dyed from Perkin’s original recipe for a tangible demonstration of Perkin’s work. That was a great idea until I actually researched the recipe and found that I didn’t have the chemicals, equipment or the patience for low yields and the filtering of toxic brown goo. So, I turned to Dr. Kevin M. Dunn, Elliott Professor of Chemistry at Hampden-Sydney College, whom I learned has gone through this process and wrote a modified recipe for Perkin’s Mauve. Dr. Dunn was so helpful with specifics on how to carry out my experiment and even provided the “aniline cocktail” to assure success.

My recipe contained two solutions which were eventually combined to create a magical chemical reaction that turns colors right before your eyes. Aniline (or coal tar) is essential. Interestingly enough, if pure aniline is used, a brown color will result. The aniline must be contaminated with o-toluidine and p-toluidine to result in the deep mauve color. Perkin believed he was using pure aniline in his experiments. It’s this miscalculation that gave him a different career path in science.

I found it interesting that the quality of mauve drastically changed if any of the ingredients increased or decreased by a drop or two. The aniline oil was the touchiest; exact measurements were critical. That being said, I experimented with different ratios of ingredients and batch sizes and Dr. Dunn’s recipe was far superior in achieving the original mauve color experienced by Perkin.

The experiment took planning and research but, wow, the work was worth it. The first time I saw the reaction take place and the mauve started to form, it was a “Hallelujah” moment! Complete giddiness that history can be chemically recreated from my own hands right here in Littleton, Colorado! Still, I believe seeing Dr. Gal’s excitement to receive a living tactile example of his intensive research and presentation was by far the most rewarding part of my experiment. Inspiration at it’s finest!

Dr. Gal’s presentation https://youtu.be/kRQSAen4NpQ

Dr. Dunn’s recipe and experiment https://www.cavemanchemistry.com/cavebook/chtar3.html

Fashion impact from Perkin’s Mauve. https://blog.sciencemuseum.org.uk/mauve-mania/

Imperial College, Molecular Structure. https://www.ch.ic.ac.uk/motm/perkin.html